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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.